DESIGNING CONTEMPORARY BATIK TIGA NEGERI (THREE-COUNTRIES BATIK) IN PLEATS FOR FASHION DESIGN

Abstract

There is evidence that batik existed in China, Japan, India, Thailand, East Turkestan, Europe, and Africa. However, in Indonesia, this art was refined that it become one of the most important art forms in Asia. Javanese batik reaches its highest level of refinement through a combination of a vast repertoire of patterns, sophisticated dyeing methods, and technical perfection. In addition to Indonesia, batik is also developing in Malaysia and Thailand. It can be argued that the three countries shared a common culture, namely batik. Batik Tiga Negeri (Three-countries Batik), developed by Chinese Peranakan entrepreneurs, is unique in its production process and famous for its beauty, prestige, and cultural value. In the 1870s, this batik underwent a natural dyeing process in three batik centers: red in Lasem, blue in Pekalongan, and brown in Solo/Surakarta. The result is batik featuring chicken red blood (merah getih pithik), indigo blue, and soga brown with motifs created by batik artists' creative collaborations in three batik centers that showing a diversity of visual cultures. The question arises as to what would happen if the Batik Tiga Negeri concept evolved to showcase the visual styles unique of each of these countries. This research employs descriptive qualitative and quantitative research with selected methods such as literature research, observations, interviews, questionnaires, and experiments. The sequence is first to explore the creative concept behind the production of Batik Tiga Negeri. Second, research on batik or other illustrated fabrics in three countries. Third, conducting interviews with owners of batik workshops in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand. Fourth, processing the analysis results using a compositional interpretation approach, the semiotics of the text, and the application of traditional transformation methods, namely ATUMICS, for the development of contemporary Batik Tiga Negeri. The creative process includes designing and producing the contemporary Batik Tiga Negeri and applying it using digital printing technology and pleating techniques. Subsequently, the results of the experiment were presented in a focus discussion group held in Lasem and attended by batik entrepreneurs. The result of this research is the contemporary Batik Tiga Negeri in Pleats and its derived fashion products with modern values. Therefore, the contemporary Batik Tiga Negeri in Pleats are expected to strengthen the cultural relations between the three countries by respecting each other's cultures.